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1990 AIGA MEDAL
If Frank Zachary was never born (or at least was in another
profession) many esteemed photographers, illustrators, writers,
graphic designers and art directors would probably be less
esteemed, if not unknown, today. For almost fifty years Zachary has
worn many hats in publishing, advertising, and public relations as
a writer, art director and editor. He has been the quintessential,
behind-the-scenes catalyst—inspiring and directing talented people
to do good work.
Zachary, the editor-in-chief of Town and Country
magazine since 1972, has prominently appeared on various mastheads.
In fact, as a young boy in 1962, this writer first saw him listed
as the art director of Holiday. Without understanding the
nature of either graphic design or art direction at the time, I was
nonetheless inspired by the striking photography and witty
illustration of this magazine, and I somehow intuited that Zachary
had made it all happen. Without knowing him personally I decided to
follow in his footsteps—I too wanted to be a magazine art director.
It was only many years later that I learned of Zachary's extensive
role not only in the development of this, one of the last great
behemoth magazines, but of his contributions to magazine publishing
in general and art direction specifically. He was the founding
editor of the legendary Portfolio magazine, the
short-lived journal of applied arts, brilliantly designed by Alexey
Brodovitch. Portfolio became the paradigm of what a modern
graphic and industrial arts magazine should be. And
Holiday, for which he was both art director and managing
editor, was more than just a stunning travel magazine, it was a
wellspring for photographer- and illustrator-journalists who blazed
trails in a field that was primarily dominated by decorative
styles.
Zachary had created working conditions where the unexpected was
expected, yet novelty was always eschewed. “The beauty of Frank's
work is that it never followed a single thread,” says Sam Antupit,
design director of Harry N. Abrams and former art director of
Esquire. “Things that he initiated might have been copied
[by other magazines] but they never approached his remarkable
execution.” Working for Zachary did not necessarily insure fame and
fortune (though many of his “discoveries” did do quite well) but
resulted in something even more valuable, the confidence to
exercise self-expression, push conventions and be more than just a
pair of tired hands.
What distinguishes Zachary from other great art directors is
journalism. He is not a mere aestheticist, but rather, but
rather a storyteller and reporter in picture and words; he is not a
simple decorator, but a conceptualist with ideas as his bedrock.
“With Frank the lines blur as to whether something should be
executed visually or verbally, because he has always been that rare
combination of editor and art director,” continues
Antupit. “His brilliance is that he says visually what
should be an image and verbally what should be a
word. If an image is better expressed in words then he is not
afraid to use the words. So in the end what you have is a concept
where the verbal and the visual are inseparable.” The
inseparability of word and image—journalism and art—is rooted in a
lifetime of activity dating back to Zachary's earliest jobs during
the Depression, where in his native Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania amidst
the factories of this steel town he found his life's work in
magazines.
Zachary was born in 1914, the son of Croatian immigrants. During
his high school years he worked at all sorts of jobs “just to keep
body and soul alive,” he says. But he had a passion for writing,
particularly poetry, science fiction and humor, which kept his
spirits high, though his efforts were rejected every time he tried
to submit them to magazines. But his love didn't go unrequited for
long. At 18 he got a job with Henry Scheetz, whose family had been
prominent in the publishing house of J.B. Lippincott Company, and
had come to Pittsburgh from Philadelphia to salvage the ailing
Pittsburgh Bulletin Index. Scheetz took to Zachary
immediately, owing in part to the boy's talents, but more
pragmatically because he needed a low-paid staff. “He needed me
alright,” Zachary recalls amusedly, “and I became the
staff.” He quickly taught himself how to use the Speed Graphic, the
classic newsman's camera, and within months became the Bulletin
Index's local beat reporter, makeup and layout man, as well as
its chief copy boy.
The Bulletin Index resembled many small city magazines
of the day. It covered debutante parties and golfing events, and
published witty cartoons and mildly satiric articles. Predictably,
most Depression-ear magazines of this kind failed, but Scheetz had
a curious success. In fact, the Bulletin Index was a kind
of precursor to the contemporary city magazine. For Zachary it was
also a wonderful place to learn the trade, if for no other reason
than that Scheetz hired novelist John O'Hara as editor. “It was a
break for me,” says Zachary, “for O'Hara vicariously introduced me
to the world of New York writing. He'd come in every morning, sit
down at his Underwood-5 typewriter, put in a yellow sheet of copy
paper, twirl it and write. About an hour and a half later there was
a perfectly typed and written short story for The New
Yorker. Before O'Hara left nine months later to write
Appointment in Samara, he had changed the magazine from
its society orientation to one cast in the mold of Time.
As we began to prosper, the staff got bigger, and around 1937 [at
age 23] I became managing editor.” In his off hours he was also the
Pittsburgh stringer for Time, Life, and Fortune
magazines.
Zachary took a shine to a young journalist hired as the
Bulletin Index's society editor, Catherine Mehler (later
to become Mrs. Zachary), who, with contacts in publishing in
Chicago and Cleveland, convinced Zachary to pitch the idea of
selling a network of regional magazines that he would edit. “I went
to see the big-money people,” he remembers, “with a prospectus
written by Catherine, but just couldn't make the case. But it did,
however, get back to Scheetz and precipitated a major falling-out
between us.”
Jobless, in the spring of 1938 Zachary headed for New York City
in an old Ford and $50 in his pocket. New York was formidable.
Zachary recalls being, “happily passed along from one place to
another by very friendly guys who had never seen or heard of me,
and I finally wound up, in less than a week with a job at Carol
Byoir's public relations firm.” He worked in one of those legendary
bullpens where 30 other would-be writers were trying to make a
living while pursuing careers as short-story writers. Zachary was
responsible for AP press releases, but while his colleagues battled
them out, Zachary, an admittedly slow writer, worked well into the
night. This work was not his metier, but his next job as
PR man for the 1939 New York World's Fair, the largest peacetime
public campaign in American history, was considerably more
satisfying.
As assistant director for the office of magazine publicity,
which handed out releases, arranged for stories and photo
opportunities, he became closely acquainted with the Fair's
tireless promoter and organizing genius, Grover Whelan, who in turn
taught Zachary and his friend Bill Bernback (who later became an
advertising kingpin) conceived and produced some of the Fair's many
imaginative, theatrical publicity stunts. The Fair was only a two
year event, so at its close Zachary was unemployed until hitched up
as PR man to The United China Relief Fund. This humanitarian group
supported by Time czar Henry Luce and Clare Booth Luce,
hoped to relieve the suffering of Chinese people facing Japanese
aggression. Taking a page from his World's Fair bag of tricks,
Zachary organized publicity events including rice bowl festivals
and parades, and brought over the first two Pandas from China to
the Bronx Zoo. The following year, with the United States deeply
involved in the war, he took a job with the COI (Coordinator of
Information) which became the OWI (Office of War Information), the
civilian agency that produced major propaganda for the U.S.
government. Also working there in those days were illustrator
Ludwig Bemelmans, designers Tobias Moss and Bradbury Thompson, and
publisher Oscar Dystel who put out a magazine called
U.S.A. Zachary worked as an editor and picture coordinator
for U.S.A. and Victory, and later worked on
Photo Review, with the German emigré Kurt Safranski, a
pioneer of photojournalism who went on to found the Black Star
photo agency.
Towards war's end, with the first of two daughters on the way,
Zachary sought a more permanent job. Minicam, which later
became Modern Photography, for which he became the East
Coast editor in 1945, was a magazine for the passionate home
photographer. But rather than cater only to the technical needs of
amateurs, Zachary decided to reinterpret his job by creating a
forum for the professional and art photographer. Among his stories
were features on established figures including Paul Strand, Ansel
Adams, Aaron Siskind, Harry Callahan, Helen Levitt and Arnold
Newman, as well as new discoveries—many whose work would later be
employed in other magazines under Zachary's tutelage. Also at this
time Zachary wrote an article on Alexey Brodovitch, Harper's
Bazaar's legendary art director, about whom he says “I later
honed my own art directing skills just by being around
Brodovitch.”
Quite an intimate friendship developed between the two. And
another important friendship began at this time with George
Rosenthal Jr., whose family owned Writer's Digest in
Cincinnati, as well as Modern Photography, and who was
installed as the latter publication's advertising salesman. “George
was a student of Hoholy-Nagy in Chicago,” recalls Zachary, “and was
a superb photographer. We both wanted to publish a good magazine on
art and design, and talked about it often.” They eventually
collaborated on Portfolio, but first, in 1945, Zachary
left Modern Photography to work on the mysterious
Magazine X.
After the war, most major publishers were proposing new
magazines to capitalize on the resurgence of consumer advertising.
Curtis, the publishers of Saturday Evening Post, hired
Zachary to be senior editor of Magazine X, a general
interest magazine later renamed People. Its executing
editor was Ted Patrick, for whom Zachary had worked at the OWL. A
dummy was presented to Curtis' management, but owing to corporate
problems it was rejected as unfeasible. They did, however, buy a
moribund travel magazine, Holiday, and made Patrick its
editor, leaving Zachary again without a job.
He pounded the streets for a while before being hired by Grover
Whalen, then president of Coty, who was organizing the 50th
anniversary celebration of the 1898 amalgamation of New York's five
boroughs into Greater New York. “Grover was a great showman,”
recalls Zachary, “who always wanted to do big things. And we did
them. I organized the biggest parade in the history of New York at
that time—100,000 people, 5,000 vehicles. I had the people who
planned D-Day handle the logistics so that everything was timed to
avoid traffic jams. I used the people who helped create the atomic
bomb, the Manhattan Project, to trap light from a star 50
light-years away to ignite a flame at the cutting of the ceremonial
ribbon. I deployed 2,000 police and firemen to make certain that
every building along the parade route had turned off their lights
between 9 and 10 p.m. so that the fireworks would be all the more
impressive.” The event went off with only one hitch. “We stretched
a ribbon across Fifth Avenue loaded with gun powder that when the
button was pushed the star would ignite the powder and cut the
ribbon. Unfortunately, we put a little too much in and it blew all
over, blackening the faces of the mayor, the governor, and Whalen,
and stopping their watches too.”
Zachary returned to magazines when George Rosenthal Jr.
suggested that they create a magazine for America such as
Graphis was for Europe, only not so rigid in format. “The
format itself should be a graphic experience,” says Zachary. The
elder Rosenthal put up $25,000 to print a 9 x 12-in., perfect-bound
magazine on luscious paper, incorporating as special inserts
everything from shopping bags to 3-D glasses. Portfolio
featured stories on graphic and industrial designers, poster
artists (like E. McNight Kauffer), cartoonists, and a variety of
cultural ephemera all innovatively designed by Alexey Brodovitch.
Even their letterhead, designed by Paul Rand was of the highest
caliber.
About the first issue, Zachary says, “George and I spared no
expense in buying the best paper and the best of everything else
that we could. Then we decided to sell advertising. Well, we hated
the ads we got. So we said, 'Hell, we're not going to mar our
beautiful magazine with these cruddy ads.' We were terribly
idealistic.” A subscription to the magazine cost $12 a year for
four issues and garnered a few thousands subscribers. While
Rosenthal worried about finances, Zachary's primary job was to
develop ideas and work with writers. He would also collect all the
photographs and illustrations for the stories and dash over to
Brodovitch's office at Harper's Bazaar to plan the issues.
“We got along very well because I let him have his head,” Zachary
recalls with fondness. “But he was no prima donna. He worked in the
most fantastic way. For example, I would come in, say, at seven
o'clock in the evening with the idea of how many pages we had for
an issue, and how many would be devoted to each story. I would come
back [the next day], and there was the magnificent layout. He used
the photostat machine like a note pad. He would get stats of every
photo, often different sizes of the same piece, in tiny increments
that might vary from a quarter inch to an inch, or from an inch to
two inches, and so on. You would see him surrounded by all these
stats. But as he put them down, my god, all of a sudden a spread
materialized beautifully proportioned, everything in scale, with
just the right amount of white space, type and picture mass. I
learned so many nuances of art directing just from watching
him.”
Portfolio premiered in late 1949, and lasted two years
and three issues. During this time, Zachary was also editor of
Jazzways, a one-shot magazine on the folkways of jazz. The
cover was designed by Paul Rand, and its photographers included
Berenice Abbott, Henri-Cartier Bresson and Lee Friedlander. In
addition, Zachary and Rosenthal published paperback photo albums
under the Zebra Books imprint. These were the first of their kind
to present good photojournalistic portfolios for just 25 cents. The
titles included “Murder Incorporated,” the first book on the Mafia;
“Life and Death in Hollywood,” a pre-Kenneth Anger look at the
foibles of the glitter capital; and “Naked City,” the first
collection of pictures by the famed New York street photographer,
Weegee. Each sold between 150,000 and 250,000 copies with all
profits poured back into Portfolio.
The third and last issue of Portfolio was the most
beautiful. The dream of an exquisite, ad-free magazine had,
however, turned into a nightmare. Though financial problems did not
weaken Zachary's resolve to publish, George Rosenthal Sr. decided,
rather than incur further loses, to summarily kill
Portfolio at a time when Zachary was stricken with
appendicitis. Nearly fifty years have passed, and Zachary's
brainchild remains a landmark in the history of design.
The death of Portfolio in 1951 left Zachary jobless
once again. This time a fateful meeting with Ted Patrick, his
former OWI boss, resulted in a job as picture editor of
Holiday magazine. At that time Holiday was clean
and orderly, though its layout looked as if it had been made with a
cookie cutter. So as Zachary worked with the pictures he also began
to make his own layouts. And these were not just picture layouts in
the conventional sense, but, taking a page from Brodovitch's book,
cinematic presentations. Noting the dramatic difference, Patrick
offered Zachary the job of art director. “'Jesus Ted,' I told him,
'I'm okay, but why don't you try to get Brodovitch? He's the real
master.'” In fact, Zachary even took Patrick to meet the White
Russian, but for some reason they did not hit it off and Patrick
insisted that Zachary take the job.
Zachary didn't know much about typography, but did have
experience laying out pictures in the Zebra Books, which taught him
the value of scale. “I learned that the picture is the
layout. If you have a great picture, you don't embellish it with
big type. You make it tight and sweet,” he says referring to his
signature layouts. He soon developed a cadre of talented
photographers who brought life to the magazine in the form of
thematic picture essays. Among them were Arnold Newman, Tom
Hollyman, John Lewis Stage, Robert Phillips, Fred Maroon and Slim
Aarons, many of whom still work on Town and Country.
While photography was the back bone of Holiday,
illustration was its soul. Zachary was underwhelmed by the
prevailing sentimental illustrative approach found in most American
magazines, and eyed Europe, specifically England and France, for
the surrealistic comic vision he was looking for. “Frank brought
sophisticated illustration to American magazines,” recalls Sam
Antupit. “Other art directors brought powerful or clever images,
but Frank bought an unprecedented sophistication. Of course it came
from Europe since in the early Fifties there weren't too many
Americans practicing sophisticated pen work.
Holiday artists like Ronald Searle, Andre François,
Roland Topor, Folon, Tomi Ungerer, Comenico Gnoli and Edward Gorey
(one of the few native Americans practicing out of the mainstream)
were given great latitude to develop their own stories and
portfolios. Zachary avoided using the reigning stars because ”that
would be too easy,“ but chose to discover his own new galaxy. In
most cases the artists actually transformed themselves in this
environment. ”I got people like Ronald Searle,“ remembers Zachary,
”to do a feature on something like the London hotel scene. The
first result was pretty straightforward, so I asked him to satirize
it or just make it funny, and almost overnight, he changed his
style, becoming the Searle that you and I know today.“ Searle
concurs: ”Frank gave me a lot of firsts. From around 1959 to 1969,
he gave me all the space one could dream of, the chance to fill it
with color, the freedom to travel and what proved to be the last of
the great reportages. Off to Alaska! Cover all of Canada! Bring me
ten pages on the dirty bits of Hamburg! No expense spared. The
years of travel for Frank gave me experiences that cannot be
bought. There was always one problem: he always called me 'Arnold'
instead of Ronald. But then, he probably always called Arnold
Newman 'Ronald,' so it balanced out.“
Zachary also developed what he called ”environmental
portraiture,“ which is common in today's magazines but was
startlingly unique in the early Fifties. Says Zachary, ”I would
tell a photographer, 'If a guy is a multimillionaire painter, I
want to see a whole lot of his paintings in the background and on
top of that I want to see his castle in the background too.' A
photographer just couldn't walk in and take a picture of a subject;
he had to assemble the components of the subject's life.“ A now
classic example of environmental portraiture is a Zachary-directed
photograph made for a special issue of Holiday on New York
City showing the highways and parks czar and power-broker, Robert
Moses, standing omnipotently if precariously on a red girder over
the East river. The shot illustrates Zachary's willingness to spend
a tremendous amount of effort to get that one perfect image for an
issue whose shelf life is decidedly short. But this iconic
photograph by Arnold Newman still has life, long after the magazine
turned to dust.
For several years before his death, Ted Patrick was editor of
Holiday in name only; he was very ill and relied entirely
on Zachary, to run the magazine both editorially and visually. In
1964, Patrick died, and Zachary admits he ”was confident that I
would succeed Ted as editor.“ Instead, there was a new group of
managers at Curtis who named a new chief over Zachary. ”They gave
us all raises, and made me managing editor? but it became
intolerable.“ Zachary and other editors objected to the cheapening
of the magazine and urged the president of Curtis to intercede. He
sympathized but did nothing. Abandoning his ”baby“ was not easy,
but Zachary left to take a job with McCann-Erickson, under the
famed advertising creative, Mary Wells.
”To this day, I don't know what they expected of me,“ he says
about working in a field that was foreign to him. ”They made me
president of international advertising at Pritchard-Wood, a pretty
fine agency with nine offices, headquartered in London but operated
in New York.“ It was, however, a difficult experience, for by his
own admission Zachary knew and cared little about advertising. He
lasted eight months until being moved laterally at McCann-Erickson
into the Center for Advanced Practice, a fancy title for a group
that was supposed to be a hothouse of advertising experimentation.
His colleagues on this elite, somewhat idealistic project included
Bill Backer, Al Scull and Henry Wolf. The center was to be a
laboratory for experimentation with new advertising approaches, but
turned sour when the breakthroughs they proposed were ignored or
rejected. Zachary stayed on for three years, until in 1969 he was
asked to return to Holiday as art director.
One of the popular canards in the magazine racket is, if a
magazine is on the skids it must be the art director's fault.
Hence, if its look is improved—if the cosmetics are freshened—the
magazine will regain its sprite complexion. Zachary was asked
back by the same editor who superseded him earlier to do what he
should have been allowed to do in the first place. And he did put a
remarkable team of talents together to make the best travel
magazine on the market. But the changes came too late to reverse
the deleterious market trends. Holiday was eventually
sold, resold, and died. Zachary, who had helped in its initial
acquisition, was rewarded with a magazine of his own—a struggling
little lifestyle magazine that had grown out of something called
Diplomat.
Zachary promptly changed the name to Status and had
Salvador Dali design its logo. As editor, Zachary was free to pump
in all the energy he wanted, converting it to an amusing,
entertaining, literate society magazine, done very much with
tongue-in-cheek—in the manner of the old Vanity Fair (and
predating by a decade the revival of the new Vanity Fair).
He hired Dick Zimmerman as art director. The editorial mix was
exciting; the graphics were excellent. The only problem was that
the magazine was never given enough capital to succeed. Zachary
eventually had a falling out with the publisher and after a year's
worth of issues he left, again jobless—but wiser.
In late 1970 he was hired as art director of a lackluster
Travel and Leisure, where he stayed for over a year
imbuing it with the kind of photography and illustration that was
his signature, and that by this time had become a standard in other
magazines too. He would have been happy to stay at T&L
had he not been offered the job of editor-in-chief of Hearst's
Town and Country. All the experience that he had acquired
over the years suddenly came together with this one assignment. He
used this opportunity to effectively change this veritable
bibelot of high society to reflect his wit and concern for
the human condition without abandoning the core audience. ”I knew
it was a society magazine,“ he says, ”but if had the potential for
expanding its readership because it was not just about parties and
debutantes, but about the rich who had the power to do things. They
were, I believed, an audience ready for socially motivated
articles.“ The focus shifted from strictly reporting on social
doings to a mix of themes, including satirical pieces on class and
society. ”My satirical side isn't savage or mean,“ confides
Zachary, who has always wanted to publish a truly sophisticated
satiric journal, and still hope to. His humor doesn't ”tear people
apart,“ but rather plays off their own comic sense.
Zachary's total understanding of his magazine and confidence in
his staff and contributors result in a decidedly unique product—one
that maintains certain traditions while breaking new ground.
”Town and Country is probably the only national magazine
that still does original photo essays,“ says former Life
photographer Slim Aarons, who has worked for Zachary for over three
decades. In fact, in the face of formats based on the planned
clutter and chaos that most magazines celebrate today, Zachary
still firmly believes in the viability of a traditionally
positioned and planned editorial well in which the photo essay is a
major story-telling tool.
Zachary is a rare breed of editor-art director. But how does
being a former art director affect the way an editor-in-chief
commands other art directors? ”I merely represent the experience of
an old hand,“ explains Zachary modestly. ”I'm a journalist, not a
designer per se. I do not interfere with typographic matters, but I
am interested in the photograph as a medium of communication and
try to make certain that a picture is used to tell a concrete
story.“
At 77, Zachary argues passionately for certain standards in
magazine design, since he believes that the tenets of good design
do not change—only style does. But he also watches out for,
nurtures and champions new talent. This keen ability to flow with
the current yet stand fast for his beliefs and the integrity of his
publication, is the solid underpinning of Zachary's 60 years in
publishing. If what it takes to be an AIGA medalist is the ability
to inspire others, contribute to the language of design, and leave
a legacy that should be studied for years to follow, then, as in
all his other jobs and awards, Frank Zachary fits the bill. He is
truly a catalyst-in-chief.
Copyright 1991 by The American Institute of Graphic
Arts.
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