I Was Interview's Layout Man
This article is not about me, but since I played a minor role in
the early history of Interview magazine, I have a story to
tell. Back in 1971, my name appeared on three issues of
Interview's masthead under the title “layout.” That year I
redesigned Interview, and, if I do say so myself, it was
cleaner and smarter than the dozen previous issues, which were
grungy and messy. However, my contribution was a rather uneventful
blip in Interview's ultimate legacy—but more about that
later.
When founded in 1969 at the legendary Warhol Factory on Union
Square in Manhattan (just a few blocks away from Max's Kansas
City), Interview was Pop Artist and fame-monger Andy
Warhol's very own DIY magazine before the term “Do It Yourself” was
officially coined. Actually, he didn't really do it himself—he had
others, like me, do it for him (and from such a distance that I
never even met him). But his blithe spirit pervaded the entire
enterprise.
The initial issues of Interview (with a logo that read:
inter/VIEW) premiered a few years before Punk made DIY into a
generational style, but they adhered to the slap-dash tradition of
the late Sixties underground press—the granddaddy of all DIY. Given
its art world pedigree, Interview may have also been
influenced by George Maciunas' Fluxus newspapers—although I never
heard any Interview editor mention Fluxus by name. Yet all
the same it seems a reasonable assumption. But I did see the
editors frequently pouring over the cheap-chic newsprint fashion
magazine, RAGS (published by Rolling Stone's Straight
Arrow Publishing Co.), which was somewhere between underground and
middle-ground, so it may have had some overall influence. The
editors also periodically glanced at John Wilcox's Other
Scenes, a sloppy underground tabloid edited by one of the
founders of the Villiage Voice, who also wrote a
politico-culture column for the East Village Other. Whatever its
roots, Interview's early issues, most produced as
newsprint, quarter-folded tabloids (a larger tabloid page folded in
half to create a magazine look), was consistent with the
alternative media culture of times, but not unique in any
exceptional way at the time.
Warhol rarely got his hands dirty with newsprint ink. He ruled
Interview from a safe distance, many blocks from where I
did my work, and was listed alphabetically as second on the
masthead under co-editor and Chelsea Girls star Paul
Morrissey.
Not only had I never meet Warhol, I was never even told that he (or
Morrissey) saw or passed-on my redesign before it went to press.
Instead Warhol was being channeled through “managing editor and art
director” Robert Colaciello, an affable, stylish guy who became an
editor, trend-spotter—friend of Jackie-O—and currently author of a
book about Ronald and Nancy Reagan. As associate editor, Glenn
O'Brien, long a witty and insightful cultural commentator who
writes for various au courant magazines today, also had lots of
input into the editorial mix. The three of us sat at my drawing
board together as I sketched pages and pasted pictures of film
stars and Warhol friends into place. And during these sessions I
was vicariously excited by the little tidbits of gossip that
Colaciello and O'Brien revealed about the chicest of the chic, from
Mick Jagger to Marisa Berenson.
At that time I was also art director of a rock music tabloid and I
thought I was hired to be the art director of Interview
since all the type and graphic choices for the redesign were mine.
Instead, Colaciello who selected all the photographs, in addition
to writing many and editing all of the articles, assumed the a.d.
title for himself. It was not an unpleasant relationship;
Colaciello chose those images he knew would please Andy, but he
never proscribed type or prohibited me from using my favorite two
typefaces in the magazine. Which, in retrospect, was a big
mistake.
At least Andy should have vetted my typographic choices for reasons
that will become obvious. Before becoming America's leading artist
he was, after all, an accomplished graphic designer/illustrator
(with a distinctive hand-lettering style) and should have been the
first to realize that my pairing of art deco Broadway type for the
nameplate Inter/view and the curvaceous Busorama typeface
as the subtitle “Andy Warhol's Film Magazine” was one of the
dumbest combinations ever. In addition to being slavishly retro and
therefore inappropriate for a progressive journal, the two faces
lacked any harmony whatsoever. Add to that the heavy oxford rules I
placed at the top and bottom of each page, and, if I were in charge
I would have fired the designer. But no one uttered a displeased
peep, and the magazine kept my logo for six issues, even after I
voluntarily left for another job. Finally, with Vol 2 No. 10 the
editors (or maybe Warhol himself) switched to a handwritten version
that read Andy Warhol's Interview. And it has more or less
been stuck with it on the cover ever since.
This article already includes too much about my blip in the
limelight, however, from my wormhole perspective I can offer some
insight as to the evolution of a magazine that has become so
endemic to late twentieth century celebrity, glitz, and fashion, as
well as a significant outlet for photography and graphic design,
that an ambitious, limited-edition, seven volume, thirty-five year
anniversary collection, “Andy Warhol's Interview: The
Crystal Ball of Pop Culture” edited by Sandra J. Brant and Ingrid
Sischy, is being published this year by Karl Lagerfeld's 7L, Steidl
Publishers. And this mammoth boxed set only covers only the first
decade from 1969 to 1979. Oh I almost forgot, the entire collection
is packaged in a “crate on wheels” and comes with a facsimile
edition of the premiere issue (which originally cost 50 cents).
Needless to say this new is quite a bit more expensive.
Interview evolved into “the definitive guide to the most
significant stars of today and tomorrow,” say its editors and it
was the first magazine to employ a unique question-and-answer
format to delve candidly into the minds of celebrities, artists,
politicians, filmmakers, musicians, and literary figures. In many
of the issues, celebrities Interview other celebrities—a
Warholian conceit that gave Interview its voyeuristic
appeal. Yet it is the visual persona, beginning with the haphazard
original design, the pseudo-Deco redesign that I perpetrated, and,
ultimately, the introduction of mannered photo-illustration
celebrity portrait covers by Richard Bernstein (1939—2002) that
defined Interview's graphic personality during the
seventies, disco decade. Indeed the latter marked a truly unique
approach to editorial cover design.
Bernstein's covers had roots in sixties fashion illustration, but
through his use of photographs heavily retouched with paint,
pencil, and pastel he monumentalized subjects like nothing else in
print. “Bernstein made the up-and-coming celebrities of the era,
Sylvester Stallone, Calvin Klein, Madonna, even wholesome Mary
Tyler Moore, look as sleek and sexy as our nostalgized memories of
that era,” writes Frank DiGiacomo in a weblog article. He
exaggerated their already glamorous visages through colorful
graphic enhancements that made each personality into a veritable
mask that hid blemishes while accentuating their auras. He made
“Superstars” into “Megastars” (which was also the title of his book
of collected Interview covers), because appearing on
Interview's cover meant more than just fifteen or even
thirty minutes of fame.
The most memorable issue that I worked on was devoted to Luciano
Visconti's film version of Thomas Mann's “Death in Venice” (Vol II
No. 4), and was filled with luscious film stills of Dirk Bogard,
Silvana Mangano, and Bjorn Anderesen. as well as two nude shower
scenes of Marisa Berenson. It was actually a stunning issue yet was
among the last to use handout photos. Interview gradually
shifted from relying on publicity stock to creating its own
photo-sessions with the eminences of celebrity and fashion
photography: Robert Mapplethorpe, Barry McKinley, Francesco
Scavullo, Herb Ritts, Ara Gallant, Peter Beard, Bruce Weber, Berry
Berenson Perkins. The editors note that these and other
photographers were given the freedom to, “create their most
unforgettable and original work.” Despite the continued use of
yellowing newsprint, these photographs jumped of the pages and some
are still iconic today.
Typographically, however, the first decade of Interview
was functional and staid. Compared to Rolling Stone, which reveled
in typographic exuberance, Interview's interior format was
fairly neutral, allowing the photographs to take center stage. It
wasn't until the nineties when Fabien Baron (and later Tibor
Kalman) became creative director(s) that the magazine's graphic
attributes were totally integrated into a dynamic whole. During the
seventies, Interview was still uncertain whether it should
hold to its avant garde, alternative-culture root or lead the march
from underground to fashionable mainstream. The evolution that is
vividly chronicled in the celebratory new volumes reveals that
Interview took the short march into the valley of
ephemeral style. Yet the issues of the seventies are also
documents, which through iconic pictures and candid
Interviews examine a popular culture that continues to
capture the imagination.
About the Author: Steven Heller, co-chair of the Designer as Author MFA and co-founder of the MFA in Design Criticism at School of Visual Arts, is the author of Merz to Emigre and Beyond: Avant Garde Magazine Design of the Twentieth Century (Phaidon Press), Iron Fists: Branding the Totalitarian State (Phaidon Press) and most recently Design Disasters: Great Designers, Fabulous Failure, and Lessons Learned (Allworth Press). He is also the co-author of New Vintage Type (Thames & Hudson), Becoming a Digital Designer (John Wiley & Co.), Teaching Motion Design (Allworth Press) and more. www.hellerbooks.com